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Adsorption hierarchy of surfactants and polymers to a damaged hair model: effect of composition, order and polymer size
KTH Royal Institute of Technology, Sweden; Institut Laue-Langevin, France.
Institut Laue-Langevin, France.
Institut Laue-Langevin, France; Uppsala University, Sweden.
Rutherford Appleton Laboratory, UK.
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2024 (English)In: Physical Chemistry, Chemical Physics - PCCP, ISSN 1463-9076, E-ISSN 1463-9084, Vol. 27, no 2, p. 1089-1099Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

A comprehensive understanding of chemical interactions at the surface of hair represents an important area of research within the cosmetic industry and is essential to obtain new products that exhibit both performance and sustainability. This paper aims at contributing to this research by applying a combination of surface techniques (neutron reflectometry, quartz-crystal microbalance and atomic force microscopy) to study adsorption of surface active ingredients onto hair-mimetic surfaces. The surface of hair is not homogeneous due to chemical and physical damage, and this work focuses on partly damaged hair models, in which both hydrophobic and charged moieties are present. Examples of such mixed-surface models are rare in the literature, despite the interest in the topic. The studied actives were an anionic surfactant (sodium dodecyl sulphate, SDS) and a natural polysaccharide (chitosan) of two different molecular weights, to represent soluble polymer-surfactant associations of cosmetic interest in hair-care rinsing applications. The effect of the concentration of SDS, the molecular weight of chitosan, and the order in which SDS and chitosan are introduced are studied, and compared to totally hydrophobic and totally hydrophilic surfaces. Results show that SDS can interact with the hydrophobic portions of the mixed surface, and its adsorption increases if associated with chitosan. Interestingly, differences have been found in the adsorption behaviour of chitosan depending on its chain size. Both types can deposit onto the surface, but when SDS is added, the lower molecular weight chitosan keeps its extended conformation in a ca. 70 Å thick layer, while the higher molecular weight chitosan collapses to form a layer of about 30 Å. This knowledge opens the door to developing hair-care formulations with improved performance and sustainability. 

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Royal Society of Chemistry , 2024. Vol. 27, no 2, p. 1089-1099
Keywords [en]
Anionic surfactants; Elastomers; Surface chemistry; anionic surfactant; chitosan; dodecyl sulfate sodium; polymer; polysaccharide; surfactant; Chemical interactions; Damaged hairs; Hair care; Hair model; Hydrophobics; Modeling effects; Order size; Performance; Polymer sizes; Sodium dodecyl sulphate; adsorption; article; atomic force microscopy; chemical interaction; controlled study; hair; human; molecular weight; quartz crystal microbalance; reflectometry; Chitosan
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Chemical Sciences
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:ri:diva-76448DOI: 10.1039/d4cp03603dScopus ID: 2-s2.0-85212712059OAI: oai:DiVA.org:ri-76448DiVA, id: diva2:1932491
Note

This project has received funding from the European Unions Horizon 2020 research and innovation programme under the Marie Skłodowska-Curie grant agreement no. 847439. Experiments at the ISIS Neutron and Muon Source were supported by a beamtime allocation RB2210338 from the Science and Technology Facilities Council. We acknowledge beam time on the D17 reflectometer provided by ILL, and the Partnership for Soft Condensed Matter (PSCM) at ILL for providing access to the QCM-D instrumentation. M. R. and S. C. thank the Swedish Research Council (VR) for support via grant 2022-04614.

Available from: 2025-01-29 Created: 2025-01-29 Last updated: 2025-09-23Bibliographically approved

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Rutland, Mark W.

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