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Mimicking the hair surface for neutron reflectometry
KTH Royal Institute of Technology, Sweden; Institut Laue-Langevin, France.ORCID iD: 0000-0003-3528-5344
Institut Laue-Langevin, France.ORCID iD: 0000-0002-7412-8571
Institut Laue-Langevin, France; Uppsala University, Sweden.ORCID iD: 0000-0003-3778-4948
Institut Laue-Langevin, France; Uppsala University, Sweden.
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2024 (English)In: Soft Matter, ISSN 1744-683X, E-ISSN 1744-6848, Vol. 20, no 38, p. 7634-7645Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

The surface of human hair is normally hydrophobic as it is covered by a lipid layer, mainly composed of 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA). When the hair is damaged, this layer can be partially or fully removed and more hydrophilic, mainly negatively charged surfaces are formed with a wide variety of physical and chemical characteristics. The cosmetic industry is currently embracing the opportunity of increasing the sustainability of their hair-care products whilst improving product performance. To do this, it is vital to have a deeper understanding of the hair surface and how it interacts with hair-care ingredients. This work contributes to this by harnessing the potential of neutron reflectometry (NR) with scattering contrast variation to describe hierarchical adsorption. Three types of hair-mimetic surfaces have been produced: two “healthy hair” models to probe the role of lipid structure, and one “damaged hair” model, to consider the effect of the surface charge. Adsorption of hair-care ingredients has then been studied. The results for these relatively short lipid models indicate that a methyl branch has little effect on adsorption. The “damaged hair” studies, however, reveal the unexpected apparent adsorption of an anionic surfactant to a negative surface. This preferential adsorption of the otherwise solubilised neutral components demonstrates a facile route to selectively deliver a protective film on a damaged hair fibre, without the need for a cationic species. On a more general note, this study also demonstrates the feasibility of using NR to characterize such complex systems.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Royal Society of Chemistry (RSC) , 2024. Vol. 20, no 38, p. 7634-7645
Keywords [en]
Adsorption, Biomimetic Materials, Eicosanoic Acids, Hair, Humans, Hydrophobic and Hydrophilic Interactions, Neutron Diffraction, Neutrons, Surface Properties, Alkylation, Biomineralization, Neutron scattering, Positive ions, 18-methyleicosanoic acid, arachidic acid, biomimetic material, Damaged hairs, Hair care, Hair model, Hair surface, Human hair, Hydrophilics, Hydrophobics, Lipid layers, Negatively charged surfaces, Neutron reflectometry, adsorption, chemical phenomena, chemistry, hair, human, neutron, neutron diffraction, surface property, Reflectometers
National Category
Organic Chemistry
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:ri:diva-76027DOI: 10.1039/d4sm00784kScopus ID: 2-s2.0-85205603771OAI: oai:DiVA.org:ri-76027DiVA, id: diva2:1909865
Funder
EU, Horizon 2020, 847439Swedish Research Council, 2022-04614
Note

This project has received funding from the European Unions Horizon 2020 research and innovation programme under the Marie Skłodowska-Curie grant agreement no. 847439. We acknowledge the support of the Australian Centre for Neutron Scattering, ANSTO and the Australian Government through the National Collaborative Research Infrastructure Strategy (NCRIS), in supporting the neutron research and deuteration infrastructure used in this work via ACNS and NDF proposal 16984. We also acknowledge the Partnership for Soft Condensed Matter (PSCM) at ILL for providing access to the QCM-D instrumentation. M. R. and S. C. thank the Swedish Research Council (VR) for support via grant 2022-04614. We thank L'Oréal, and in particular Anne-Claude Dublanchet, for their support to the project.

Available from: 2024-11-01 Created: 2024-11-01 Last updated: 2025-09-23Bibliographically approved

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Rutland, Mark W.

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