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Publications (10 of 16) Show all publications
Peterson, A., Wallinder, J., Bengtsson, J., Idström, A., Bialik, M., Jedvert, K. & de la Motte, H. (2022). Chemical Recycling of a Textile Blend from Polyester and Viscose, Part I: Process Description, Characterization, and Utilization of the Recycled Cellulose. Sustainability, 14(12), Article ID 7272.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Chemical Recycling of a Textile Blend from Polyester and Viscose, Part I: Process Description, Characterization, and Utilization of the Recycled Cellulose
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2022 (English)In: Sustainability, E-ISSN 2071-1050, Vol. 14, no 12, article id 7272Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Material recycling requires solutions that are technically, as well as economically and ecologically, viable. In this work, the technical feasibility to separate textile blends of viscose and polyester using alkaline hydrolysis is demonstrated. Polyester is depolymerized into the monomer terephthalic acid at high yields, while viscose is recovered in a polymeric form. After the alkaline treatment, the intrinsic viscosity of cellulose is decreased by up to 35%, which means it may not be suitable for conventional fiber-to-fiber recycling; however, it might be attractive in other technologies, such as emerging fiber processes, or as raw material for sugar platforms. Further, we present an upscaled industrial process layout, which is used to pinpoint the areas of the proposed process that require further optimization. The NaOH economy is identified as the key to an economically viable process, and several recommendations are given to decrease the consumption of NaOH. To further enhance the ecological end economic feasibility of the process, an increased hydrolysis rate and integration with a pulp mill are suggested.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
MDPI, 2022
Keywords
industrial process layout, polyester, textile blend, textile recycling, viscose, cellulose, feasibility study, hydrolysis, recycling, textile industry
National Category
Other Materials Engineering
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:ri:diva-59842 (URN)10.3390/su14127272 (DOI)2-s2.0-85132547021 (Scopus ID)
Note

Correspondence Address: de la Motte, H.; RISE Research Institutes of Sweden, Argongatan 30, Box 104, Sweden; email: hanna.delamotte@ri.se; Funding details: Södra Skogsägarnas Stiftelse för Forskning, Utveckling och Utbildning, 2019-106; Funding text 1: Funding: This research was funded by Södra Skogsägarnas stiftelse för Forskning, Utveckling och Utbildning, grant number 2019-106.

Available from: 2022-08-03 Created: 2022-08-03 Last updated: 2025-09-23Bibliographically approved
Bengtsson, J., Peterson, A., Idström, A., de la Motte, H. & Jedvert, K. (2022). Chemical Recycling of a Textile Blend from Polyester and Viscose, Part II: Mechanism and Reactivity during Alkaline Hydrolysis of Textile Polyester. Sustainability, 14(11), Article ID 6911.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Chemical Recycling of a Textile Blend from Polyester and Viscose, Part II: Mechanism and Reactivity during Alkaline Hydrolysis of Textile Polyester
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2022 (English)In: Sustainability, E-ISSN 2071-1050, Vol. 14, no 11, article id 6911Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Chemical recycling of textiles holds the potential to yield materials of equal quality and value as products from virgin feedstock. Selective depolymerization of textile polyester (PET) from regenerated cellulose/PET blends, by means of alkaline hydrolysis, renders the monomers of PET while cellulose remains in fiber form. Here, we present the mechanism and reactivity of textile PET during alkaline hydrolysis. Part I of this article series focuses on the cellulose part and a possible industrialization of such a process. The kinetics and reaction mechanism for alkaline hydrolysis of polyester packaging materials or virgin bulk polyester are well described in the scientific literature; however, information on depolymerization of PET from textiles is sparse. We find that the reaction rate of hydrolysis is not affected by disintegrating the fabric to increase its surface area. We ascribe this to the yarn structure, where texturing and a low density assures a high accessibility even without disintegration. The reaction, similar to bulk polyester, is shown to be surface specific and proceeds via endwise peeling. Finally, we show that the reaction product terephthalic acid is pure and obtained in high yields. © 2022 by the authors. 

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
MDPI, 2022
Keywords
alkaline hydrolysis, depolymerization, peeling reaction, polyester, textile recycling, alkalinity, cellulose, hydrolysis, industrialization, reaction kinetics, reaction rate, recycling
National Category
Textile, Rubber and Polymeric Materials
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:ri:diva-59843 (URN)10.3390/su14116911 (DOI)2-s2.0-85132447583 (Scopus ID)
Note

Correspondence Address: Bengtsson, J.; RISE Research Institutes of Sweden, Argongatan 30, Sweden; email: jenny.bengtsson@ri.se; Correspondence Address: Jedvert, K.; RISE Research Institutes of Sweden, Argongatan 30, Sweden; email: kerstin.jedvert@ri.se; Funding details: Södra Skogsägarnas Stiftelse för Forskning, Utveckling och Utbildning, 2019-106; Funding text 1: Funding: This research was funded by Södra Skogsägarnas Stiftelse för Forskning, Utveckling och Utbildning, grant number 2019-106.

Available from: 2022-08-02 Created: 2022-08-02 Last updated: 2025-09-23Bibliographically approved
de la Motte, H. & Östlund, Å. (2022). Sustainable Fashion and Textile Recycling. Sustainability, 14(22), Article ID 14903.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Sustainable Fashion and Textile Recycling
2022 (English)In: Sustainability, E-ISSN 2071-1050, Vol. 14, no 22, article id 14903Article in journal, Editorial material (Other academic) Published
Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
MDPI, 2022
National Category
Engineering and Technology
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:ri:diva-61375 (URN)10.3390/su142214903 (DOI)2-s2.0-85142745460 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2022-12-08 Created: 2022-12-08 Last updated: 2025-09-23Bibliographically approved
Guo, Z., Eriksson, M., de la Motte, H. & Adolfsson, E. (2021). Circular recycling of polyester textile waste using a sustainable catalyst. Journal of Cleaner Production, 283, Article ID 124579.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Circular recycling of polyester textile waste using a sustainable catalyst
2021 (English)In: Journal of Cleaner Production, ISSN 0959-6526, E-ISSN 1879-1786, Vol. 283, article id 124579Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

A tremendous amount of polyester textile waste is discarded every year, which has caused a serious problem for the environment. In this study, the feasibility of circular recycling of polyester textile waste is investigated through a glycolysis process in the presence of environmentally friendly Mg–Al double oxides pellets as catalyst. Even though the catalytic performance of Mg–Al double oxides pellets is slightly lower than their granules at 240 °C, pellets were used as they benefit from a good recyclability. The pellet catalysts could be cycled three times without losing structural integrity or catalytic activity in the glycolysis of (poly(ethylene terephthalate)(PET)). However, to restore the catalytic activity after three cycles, the catalyst was regenerated through a heat treatment after the glycolysis reaction. After that the catalyst showed a comparable catalytic activity as that of virgin catalyst. In the glycolysis process, the monomer bis(hydroxyethyl) terephthalate (BHET) is generated and recovered. The molar yield of BHET was in the reaction over 80 mol%. From the recovered BHET, regenerated PET (r-PET) with an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 0.67 was synthesized. The r-PET showed a very good spinnability in the melt spinning test. The quality of the obtained r-PET fibers was comparable to virgin PET fibers. 

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Elsevier Ltd, 2021
Keywords
Circular recycling, Glycolysis, Melt spinning, Mg–Al double Oxides, Polyester textile waste, Repolymerization, Aluminum oxide, Ethylene, Heat treatment, Pathology, Pelletizing, Plastic recycling, Polyesters, Spinning (fibers), Textiles, Catalytic performance, Intrinsic viscosity, PET fibers, Poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET), Polyester textiles, Recyclability, Spinnability, Terephthalate, Catalyst activity
National Category
Natural Sciences
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:ri:diva-50446 (URN)10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.124579 (DOI)2-s2.0-85093944767 (Scopus ID)
Note

Funding details: Stiftelsen för Miljöstrategisk Forskning, 2016/1489; Funding details: 646226; Funding text 1: This work is supported by European Union’s Horizon 2020 research and innovation program (grant No. 646226 ) and Swedish Foundation for Strategic Environmental Research (grant No. 2016/1489 ).

Available from: 2020-11-09 Created: 2020-11-09 Last updated: 2025-09-23Bibliographically approved
Guo, Z., Lindqvist, K. & de la Motte, H. (2018). An efficient recycling process of glycolysis of PET in the presence of a sustainable nanocatalyst. Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 135(21), Article ID 46285.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>An efficient recycling process of glycolysis of PET in the presence of a sustainable nanocatalyst
2018 (English)In: Journal of Applied Polymer Science, ISSN 0021-8995, E-ISSN 1097-4628, Vol. 135, no 21, article id 46285Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

We demonstrate that the catalyst Perkalite F100 efficiently works as a nanocatalyst in the depolymerization of poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET). After depolymerization of PET in the presence of ethylene glycol and the Perkalite nanocatalyst, the main product obtained was bis(2-hydroxylethyl) terephthalate (BHET) with high purity, as confirmed by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and NMR. The BHET monomers could serve directly as starting materials in a further polymerization into PET with a virgin quality and contribute to a solution for the disposal of PET polymers. Compared with the direct glycolysis of PET, the addition of a predegradation step was shown to reduce the reaction time needed to reach the depolymerization equilibrium. The addition of the predegradation step also allowed lower reaction temperatures. Therefore, the strategy to include a predegradation step before depolymerization is suitable for increasing the efficiency of the glycolysis reaction of PET into BHET monomers.

Keywords
catalysts, fibers, nanocrystals, nanoparticles, nanowires, polyesters, recycling, Ethylene, Ethylene glycol, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, Monomers, Pathology, Polyethylene terephthalates, Efficient recycling, High purity, Lower reaction temperature, Nano-catalyst, PET polymer, Poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET), Terephthalate, Plastic recycling
National Category
Natural Sciences
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:ri:diva-33399 (URN)10.1002/app.46285 (DOI)2-s2.0-85041650461 (Scopus ID)
Note

Funding details: MISTRA, Stiftelsen för Miljöstrategisk Forskning; Funding text: This work was financially supported by Mistra, the Swedish Foundation for Strategic Environmental Research.

Available from: 2018-03-08 Created: 2018-03-08 Last updated: 2025-09-23Bibliographically approved
Östlund, Å., de la Motte, H., Östmark, E., Wedin, H. & Sandin, G. (2018). Chemical Recycling of Textile Fibres (2ed.). In: Annie Gullingsrud (Ed.), Sustainable Fibre Toolkit 2018: (pp. 169-171). Stockholm: Stiftelsen Svensk Textilforskning
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Chemical Recycling of Textile Fibres
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2018 (English)In: Sustainable Fibre Toolkit 2018 / [ed] Annie Gullingsrud, Stockholm: Stiftelsen Svensk Textilforskning , 2018, 2, p. 169-171Chapter in book (Other academic)
Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Stockholm: Stiftelsen Svensk Textilforskning, 2018 Edition: 2
Keywords
Textile fibres, sustainable fashion, fibre recycling, textile recycling, chemical recycling, Textilfibrer, hållbart mode, fiberåtervinning, textilåtervinning, kemisk återvinning
National Category
Engineering and Technology
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:ri:diva-33902 (URN)
Available from: 2018-05-30 Created: 2018-05-30 Last updated: 2025-09-23Bibliographically approved
de la Motte, H. (2018). Circular recycling of cotton fibers recovered from polyester/cotton textile blends. In: : . Paper presented at Circular Materials Conference.
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Circular recycling of cotton fibers recovered from polyester/cotton textile blends
2018 (English)Conference paper, Oral presentation only (Other academic)
National Category
Textile, Rubber and Polymeric Materials
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:ri:diva-33598 (URN)
Conference
Circular Materials Conference
Available from: 2018-04-04 Created: 2018-04-04 Last updated: 2025-09-23Bibliographically approved
Giordanetto, F., Knerr, L., Nordberg, P. A., Pettersen, D., Selmi, N., Beisel, H. G., . . . Ahlqvist, M. (2018). Design of Selective sPLA2-X Inhibitor (-)-2-{2-[Carbamoyl-6-(trifluoromethoxy)-1 H-indol-1-yl]pyridine-2-yl}propanoic Acid. ACS Medicinal Chemistry Letters, 9(7), 600-605
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Design of Selective sPLA2-X Inhibitor (-)-2-{2-[Carbamoyl-6-(trifluoromethoxy)-1 H-indol-1-yl]pyridine-2-yl}propanoic Acid
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2018 (English)In: ACS Medicinal Chemistry Letters, E-ISSN 1948-5875, Vol. 9, no 7, p. 600-605Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

A lead generation campaign identified indole-based sPLA2-X inhibitors with a promising selectivity profile against other sPLA2 isoforms. Further optimization of sPLA2 selectivity and metabolic stability resulted in the design of (-)-17, a novel, potent, and selective sPLA2-X inhibitor with an exquisite pharmacokinetic profile characterized by high absorption and low clearance, and low toxicological risk. Compound (-)-17 was tested in an ApoE-/- murine model of atherosclerosis to evaluate the effect of reversible, pharmacological sPLA2-X inhibition on atherosclerosis development. Despite being well tolerated and achieving adequate systemic exposure of mechanistic relevance, (-)-17 did not significantly affect circulating lipid and lipoprotein biomarkers and had no effect on coronary function or histological markers of atherosclerosis.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
American Chemical Society, 2018
Keywords
atherosclerosis, carotid ligation, coronary artery disease, inhibitor, Secreted phospholipase A2 type X, sPLA2-X, 2 [2 [carbamoyl 6 (trifluoromethoxy) 1h indol 1 yl]pyridine 2 yl]propanoic Acid, propionic acid derivative, unclassified drug, animal experiment, animal model, Article, carotid artery ligation, controlled study, drug absorption, drug bioavailability, drug clearance, drug design, drug potency, drug selectivity, IC50, IC90, in vitro study, in vivo study, lipophilicity, male, mouse, nonhuman, plasma protein binding, priority journal
National Category
Chemical Engineering
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:ri:diva-37293 (URN)10.1021/acsmedchemlett.7b00507 (DOI)2-s2.0-85049247977 (Scopus ID)
Note

Funding details: AstraZeneca

Available from: 2019-01-18 Created: 2019-01-18 Last updated: 2025-09-23Bibliographically approved
Ribul, M. & de la Motte, H. (2018). Material Translation: Validation and Visualization as Transdisciplinary Methods for Textile Design and Materials Science in the Circular Bioeconomy. Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice , 6(1), 66-68
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Material Translation: Validation and Visualization as Transdisciplinary Methods for Textile Design and Materials Science in the Circular Bioeconomy
2018 (English)In: Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice , ISSN 2051-1787, Vol. 6, no 1, p. 66-68Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

This paper presents a textile design and materials science collaboration during two design residencies in a materials science laboratory for regenerated cellulose research. The first residency evidenced that both disciplines are connected through a materials practice in communication and production of materials. This paper presents the aims of design and scientific research in materials experimentation and the scale of materials in each discipline. The cross-disciplinary collaboration developed transdisciplinary methods for textile design and materials science towards circularity of materials in a bioeconomy. A model for material affinity highlights these two new approaches between the design vision of the textiles designer and scientific method in materials science: validation and visualization. The collaboration led to establishing cellulose-based films as a process that can be made in both the design studio and the science laboratory. This paper presents how textile design prototyping in the materials science laboratory during the second residency was informed by scientific method in a transdisciplinary method of validation. Scientific communication of research is here presented as adopting visualization methods from design. Translation is presented as a term for the design-science material experiments taking place in the science laboratory in the collaboration between the authors. Improved communication between technical scientists and textile designers is needed to achieve circularity of regenerated cellulose materials in the emerging bioeconomy. This paper addresses translation as a process taking place during textile design residencies in the material science laboratory. The material experiments improved cross-disciplinary communication at the convergence of scientific method, design vision, visualization and validation processes.

Keywords
design science, regenerated cellulose, transdisciplinary, circular bioeconomy, visualization, validation process
National Category
Chemical Sciences Design
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:ri:diva-37688 (URN)10.1080/20511787.2018.1467206 (DOI)
Projects
Mistra Future Fashion
Funder
Mistra - The Swedish Foundation for Strategic Environmental Research
Available from: 2019-01-31 Created: 2019-01-31 Last updated: 2025-09-23Bibliographically approved
Wedin, H., Niit, E., Mansoor, Z. A., Kristinsdottir, A. R., de la Motte, H., Jönsson, C., . . . Lindgren, C. (2018). Preparation of Viscose Fibres Stripped of Reactive Dyes and Wrinkle-Free Crosslinked Cotton Textile Finish. Journal of Polymers and the Environment, 26(9), 3603-3612
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Preparation of Viscose Fibres Stripped of Reactive Dyes and Wrinkle-Free Crosslinked Cotton Textile Finish
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2018 (English)In: Journal of Polymers and the Environment, ISSN 1566-2543, E-ISSN 1572-8919, Vol. 26, no 9, p. 3603-3612Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

The chemical recycling of cellulosic fibres may represent a next-generation fibre–fibre recycling system for cotton textiles, though remaining challenges include how to accommodate fibre blends, dyes, wrinkle-free finishes, and other impurities from finishing. These challenges may disrupt the regeneration process steps and reduce the fibre quality. This study examines the impact on regenerated viscose fibre properties of a novel alkaline/acid bleaching sequence to strip reactive dyes and dimethyloldihydroxyethyleneureas (DMDHEU) wrinkle-free finish from cotton textiles. Potentially, such a bleaching sequence could advantageously be integrated into the viscose process, reducing the costs and environmental impact of the product. The study investigates the spinning performance and mechanical properties (e.g., tenacity and elongation) of the regenerated viscose fibres. The alkaline/acid bleaching sequence was found to strip the reactive dye and DMDHEU wrinkle-free finish from the cotton fabric, so the resulting pulp could successfully be spun into viscose fibres, though the mechanical properties of these fibres were worse than those of commercial viscose fibres. This study finds that reactive dyes and DMDHEU wrinkle-free finish affect the viscose dope quality and the regeneration performance. The results might lead to progress in overcoming quality challenges in cellulosic chemical recycling. 

Keywords
Chemical textile recycling, Crosslinking agent, Decolourization, Easy-care, Reactive dye, Alkalinity, Bleaching, Cleaning, Crosslinking, Environmental impact, Mechanical properties, Recycling, Spinning (fibers), Textile fibers, Textile finishing, Textiles, Cross linking agents, Reactive dyes, Textile recycling, Cotton
National Category
Natural Sciences
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:ri:diva-33886 (URN)10.1007/s10924-018-1239-y (DOI)2-s2.0-85046401795 (Scopus ID)
Available from: 2018-05-30 Created: 2018-05-30 Last updated: 2025-09-23Bibliographically approved
Organisations
Identifiers
ORCID iD: ORCID iD iconorcid.org/0000-0002-6608-6842

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