Tactile perception can be investigated through ex vivo friction measurements using a so–called ForceBoard™, providing objective assessments and savings in time and money, compared to a subjective human panel. In this work we aim to compare excised skin versus VitroSkin® as model substrates for tactile friction measurements. A further aim is to detect possible differences between traditional surfactant-based creams, and a particle-stabilized (Pickering) cream and investigate how the different substrates affect the results obtained. It was found that the difference in tactile friction between excised skin and VitroSkin® was small on untreated substrates. When topical creams were applied, the same trends were observed for both substrates, although the frictional variation over time relates to the difference in surface structure between the two substrates. The results also confirmed that there is a difference between starch-based Pickering formulations and surfactant-based creams after application, indicating that the latter is greasier than Pickering cream. It was also shown that the tactile friction of Pickering emulsions was consistently high even with high amounts of oil, indicating a non-greasy, and non-sticky formulation. The characteristics of starch-stabilized Pickering formulations make them promising candidates in the development of surfactant-free topical formulations with unique tactile properties. © 2022 The Authors

Rising consumer demands for safer, more natural, and sustainable topical products have led to increased interest in finding alternative excipients, while retaining functionality and cosmetic appeal. Particle-stabilized Pickering creams have emerged as possible alternatives to replace traditional surfactant-stabilized creams and are thus one of the focuses in this study. The aim of this paper was to study relationships between sensorial characteristics and physical properties to understand how different excipients affect these aspects, comparing one starch particle–stabilized and three surfactant-stabilized formulations. A human panel was used to evaluate sensorial perception, while physical properties were deduced by rheology and tactile friction, together with in vivo and ex vivo skin hydration measurements. The results show that sensorial attributes related to the application phase can be predicted with rheology, while afterfeel attributes can be predicted with tactile friction studies. Differences in rheological and sensory properties among surfactant-based creams could mainly be attributed to the type of emollients used, presence of thickeners and surfactant composition. Differences between surfactant-based creams and a Pickering cream were more evident in relation to the afterfeel perception. Presence of starch particles in the residual film on skin results in high tactile friction and low perception of residual coating, stickiness, greasiness, and slipperiness in sensorial afterfeel. © 2021 The Authors

(1) Background. To design materials with specific haptic qualities, it is important to understand both the contribution of physical attributes from the surfaces of the materials and the perceptions that are involved in the haptic interaction. (2) Methods. A series of 16 wrinkled surfaces consisting of two similar materials of different elastic modulus and 8 different wrinkle wavelengths were characterized in terms of surface roughness and tactile friction coefficient. Sixteen participants scaled the perceived Roughness and Slipperiness of the surfaces using free magnitude estimation. Friction experiments were performed both by participants and by a trained experimenter with higher control. (3) Results and discussion. The trends in friction properties were similar for the group of participants performing the friction measurements in an uncontrolled way and the experiments performed under well-defined conditions, showing that the latter type of measurements represent the general friction properties well. The results point to slipperiness as the key perception dimension for textures below 100. μm and roughness above 100. μm. Furthermore, it is apparent that roughness and slipperiness perception of these types of structures are not independent. The friction is related to contact area between finger and material. Somewhat surprising was that the material with the higher elastic modulus was perceived as more slippery. A concluding finding was that the flat (high friction) reference surfaces were scaled as rough, supporting the theory that perceived roughness itself is a multidimensional construct with both surface roughness and friction component.

One of the main parameters affecting finger friction, friction-induced vibrations in the finger, and consequently tactility is surface topography. Recently Skedung et al. performed finger friction measurements on fine controlled surfaces. These surfaces were sinusoidal with wavelengths from 0.27 to 8.8 μm and amplitudes from 0.007 to 6 μm. Building on those tests an analytical model for the contact was developed to explain the differences in friction coefficient. The contact was modelled as trapezoids in a circular pattern pressed against a sinusoidal plane. Results showed that the calculated contact area and therefore friction coefficient corresponded well with the measurements. This model can be used to see how the different surface parameters influence friction.

The unique properties of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) have led to their extensive use in consumer products, including ski wax. Based on the risks associated with PFAS, and to align with PFAS regulations, the international ski federation (FIS) implemented a ban on products containing “C8 fluorocarbons/perfluorooctanoate (PFOA)” at all FIS events from the 2021/2022 season, leading manufactures to shift their formulations towards short-chain PFAS chemistries. To date, most studies characterising PFAS in ski waxes have measured a suite of individual substances using targeted analytical approaches. However, the fraction of total fluorine (TF) in the wax accounted for by these substances remains unclear. In this study, we sought to address this question by applying a multi-platform, fluorine mass balance approach to a total of 10 commercially available ski wax products. Analysis of TF by combustion ion chromatography (CIC) revealed concentrations of 1040–51700 μg F g−1 for the different fluorinated waxes. In comparison, extractable organic fluorine (EOF) determined in methanol extracts by CIC (and later confirmed by inductively-coupled plasma-mass spectrometry and 19F- nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy) ranged from 92 to 3160 μg g−1, accounting for only 3–8.8 % of total fluorine (TF). Further characterisation of extracts by cyclic ion mobility-mass spectrometry (IMS) revealed 15 individual PFAS with perfluoroalkyl carboxylic acid concentrations up to 33 μg F g−1, and 3 products exceeding the regulatory limit for PFOA (0.025 μg g−1) by a factor of up to 100. The sum of all PFAS accounted for only 0.01–1.0 % of EOF, implying a high percentage of unidentified PFAS, thus, pyrolysis gas chromatography-mass spectrometry was used to provide evidence of the nature of the non-extractable fluorine present in the ski wax products. 

A range of surfaces coated with spherical silica particles, covering the size range from nanometer to micrometer, have been produced using Langmuir-Blodgett (LB) deposition. The particles were characterized both in suspension and in the Langmuir trough to optimize the surface preparation procedure. By limiting the particle aggregation and surface layer failures during the preparation steps, well-defined monolayers with a close-packed structure have been obtained for all particle sizes. Thus, this procedure led to structured surfaces with a characteristic variation in the amplitude and spatial roughness parameters. In order to obtain robust surfaces, a sintering protocol and an AFM-based wear test to determine the stability of the deposited surface layer were employed. Hydrophobization of the LB films followed by water contact angle measurements showed, for all tested particle sizes, the same increase in contact angle compared to the contact angle of a flat hydrophobic surface. This indicates nearly hexagonal packing and gives evidence for nearly, complete surface wetting of the surface features.

Improving the tactile aesthetics of products that can be described as touch intensive is an increasing priority within many sectors, including the furniture industry. Understanding which physical characteristics contribute to the haptic experience of a surface, and how, is therefore highly topical. It has earlier been shown that both friction and topography affect tactile perception. Thus, two series of stimuli have been produced using standard coating techniques, with systematic variation in (physical) friction and roughness properties. This was achieved through appropriate selection of matting agents and resins. The stimuli sets were then evaluated perceptually to determine the extent to which discrimination between pairs of surfaces followed the systematic materials variation. In addition to investigating the role of the physical properties in discrimination of the surfaces, their influence on perceived pleasantness and naturalness was also studied. The results indicate that changes in tactile perception can be understood in terms of friction and roughness, and that varying the matting agents (topography) and resins (material properties) in the coatings provide the controlling factors for furniture applications. Perceived pleasantness is associated with low friction and smoother topography, whilst perceived naturalness is found to be described by an interaction between tactile friction and the average maximum peak height of the surface features. Graphic Abstract: [Figure not available: see fulltext.] © 2021, The Author(s).

It is well known that during evolution, specific surface patterns emerged (e.g., on lotus leaves and butterfly wings) endowed with many remarkable surface properties (superhydrophobicity, vibrant structural color, delicate textures, etc.). In order to obtain these natural effects in cosmetics, we look for ways to transfer topographic patterns in coatings and treatments. Textured polymer surfaces were studied to explore their friction properties on the microscale and possible correlations with human tactile friction on the macroscale. We have chosen self-assembling block and random copolymers as model systems to prepare reliable biomimetic films with different micrometer and nanometer scale randomly patterned and randomly rough surfaces. The surface texture of the films was characterized by atomic force microscopy (AFM), and their tribological (friction) properties were studied with a surface forces apparatus (SFA) at a low sliding speed of 3 μm/s and at a speed of 10 cm/s relevant to realistic applications. The results are evaluated in terms of polymer segment mobility, interpenetration, entanglement and relaxation at interfaces, surface texture as described by roughness parameters, and interlocking of asperities. A stiction spike (static friction) was commonly found for the randomly patterned glassy polymer films. Random roughness patterns made from semi-crystalline polymers above their Tg gave high friction at low speed, but their friction coefficients were reduced at high speed due to less time for local entanglement and relaxations. The friction response of one of them was also affected differently by humidity than that of glassy polymer films. Tactile friction measurements with a human finger sliding against the polymer films revealed that the textures also provided differences at the macroscale, although the dynamic changes possibly due to lipid transfer, occlusion of moisture and/or damage of the films makes it difficult to draw robust conclusions. Finally, as an example, it is shown that these textures can be transferred to a soft elastomeric skin mimic substrate. This study introduces the concept of surface patterning by self-assembly to deliver tactile sensorial properties in coatings.

The interaction of active substances with molecular structures in stratum corneum (SC) is crucial for the efficacy and safety of cosmetic formulations and topical drugs. However, the molecular architecture of SC is highly complex and methods to unambiguously localize exogenous molecules within SC are lacking. Consequently, little is known about the distribution of actives within SC, and proposed penetration mechanisms through SC are typically limited to simple diffusion via a tortuous (lipid only) or transverse (across corneocytes and lipid matrix) pathway. In this work, 3D mass spectrometry imaging is used to determine the spatial distributions of four active substances at subcellular resolution in SC, including partitioning between the corneocytes and the intercellular lipid matrix. The results indicate that caffeine, 2-methyl resorcinol and oxybenzone are homogeneously distributed in the corneocytes but largely absent in the lipid matrix, despite considerable differences in lipophilicity. In contrast, the distribution- of jasmonic acid derivative is more inhomogeneous and indicates considerable localization to both the lipid phase and the corneocytes.

The crucial barrier properties of the stratum corneum (SC) depend critically on the design and integrity of its layered molecular structure. However, analysis methods capable of spatially resolved molecular characterization of the SC are scarce and fraught with severe limitations, e.g., regarding molecular specificity or spatial resolution. Here, we used 3D time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry to characterize the spatial distribution of skin lipids in corneocyte multilayer squams obtained by tape stripping. Depth profiles of specific skin lipids display an oscillatory behavior that is consistent with successive monitoring of individual lipid and corneocyte layers of the SC structure. Whereas the most common skin lipids, i.e., ceramides, C24:0 and C26:0 fatty acids and cholesteryl sulfate, are similarly organized, a distinct 3D distribution was observed for cholesteryl oleate, suggesting a different localization of cholesteryl esters compared to the lipid matrix separating the corneocyte layers. The possibility to monitor the composition and spatial distribution of endogenous lipids as well as active drug and cosmetic substances in individual lipid and corneocyte layers has the potential to provide important contributions to the basic understanding of barrier function and penetration in the SC. © 2022 by the authors.

The barrier functions of skin against water loss, microbial invasion and penetration of xenobiotics rely, in part, on the spatial distribution of the biomolecular constituents in the skin structure, particularly its horny layer (stratum corneum). However, all skin layers are important to describe normal and dysfunctional skin conditions, and to develop adapted therapies or skin care products. In this work, time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS) combined with scanning electron microscopy (SEM) was used to image the spatial distribution of a variety of molecular species, from stratum corneum down to dermis, in cross-section samples of human abdominal skin. The results demonstrate the expected localization of ceramide and saturated long-chain fatty acids in stratum corneum (SC) and cholesterol sulfate in the upper part of the viable epidermis. The localization of exogenous compounds is demonstrated by the detection and imaging of carvacrol (a constituent of oregano or thyme essential oil) and ceramide, after topical application onto ex vivo human skin. Carvacrol showed pronounced accumulation to triglyceride-containing structures in the deeper parts of dermis. In contrast, the exogenous ceramide was found to be localized in SC. Furthermore, the complementary character of this approach with classical ex vivo skin absorption analysis methods is demonstrated.

Replacing petroleum-based with bio-based ingredients in articles and chemical products is one important step towards reducing the environmental impact, and promoting circular economy practices, aligning with the goal “Responsible Consumption and Production” within United Nations’ Agenda 2030. The aim of the project was to develop bio-based prototype ski waxes and to evaluate and benchmark them with commercial petroleum-based PFAS-free ski waxes, in terms of hydrophobicity, glide performance and biodegradation.

Bio-based ski wax prototypes were blended using a mixture of ingredients approved for either topical application or ingestion by humans. Which ingredients and relative ratios to mix were based on melting points, general hydrophobic properties and generated knowledge from testing of earlier prototypes. It should be noted that only Vallakokerskan has the information about the exact content in the ski wax prototypes.

The hypothesis is that more hydrophobic, i.e. more water repellent, ski wax allows better transportation of the water film away from the ski/snow interface, providing lower friction and better glide. The hydrophobicity of ski waxes and ingredients was quantified from contact angle measurements using water and ethylene glycol as the liquid in a climate-controlled room (23°C and 50% relative humidity). To measure contact angles at sub-zero degrees, a less sensitive but portable device was put in a freezer room at -5°C where contact angles were measured using ethylene glycol.

The ski waxes showed similar hydrophobicity, in the measured static, advancing and receding contact angles, both in room temperature and at -5°C. However, the roll-off angle when the water droplet started to roll, was slightly lower for the commercial ski waxes than the bio-based prototypes. Greater differences in hydrophobicity and roll-off angles were observed for the ingredients compared to the ski wax.

In the glide tests on snow, it was difficult to separate the bio-based and commercial ski wax. This was both when considering the total glide time from four skiers testing each ski wax (ski pair) twice, and in the pairwise comparisons as is normally done when selecting skis before competition. These results show that the bio-based prototypes are comparable to commercial ski wax that is used both for competition and recreational skiing. While having similar glide function, the advantage of the bio-based ski wax is that it contains only naturally derived ingredients and that it seems to degrade slightly more rapidly in the environment. The biodegradation was compared between one bio-based and one petroleum-based ski wax using a respiration test where formed CO₂ was quantified over time. The estimated number of days required for complete degradation of the bio-based ski wax and commercial ski wax would be 223 days and 335 days, respectively, if the degradation continues at the same rate and if all carbon is converted to CO₂. In comparison to cellulose, both ski waxes degrade relatively slowly, most likely due to their hydrophobic properties.

During the project it was decided to also quantify and compare the hardness of the waxes since that is being discussed more and more as one additional characterisation technique in the project. The hardness measurements were done at -5°C. The maximum force encountered (firmness) when a probe was lowered into the sample during the compression test was taken as the hardness. Differences were obtained between the samples where the average firmness (hardness) was higher for the commercial green, blue and purple commercial ski waxes compared to the corresponding bio-based wax. However, the bio-based yellow was harder than the corresponding yellow commercial ski wax. Large differences in hardness at -5°C for the ingredients were noted.

The prototypes have been made with a mixture of different ingredients. The results from the hydrophobicity and hardness measurements of ingredients, can be used to select and modify the relative amount of each ingredient in the ski wax. If the hypothesis is that more hydrophobic and harder ingredients are better for the glide, it could be interesting to see if a wax containing a higher amount of those harder and more hydrophobic ingredients could increase the performance.

The focus in this project has been to develop a bio-based ski wax matrix. As a next step it would be interesting to develop and incorporate bio-based additives to try to increase the performance further. Another future outlook is to make the bio-based wax as a liquid product that are becoming more popular due the ease of application and less waste during the waxing procedure.

The human finger is exquisitely sensitive in perceiving different materials, but the question remains as to what length scales are capable of being distinguished in active touch. We combine material science with psychophysics to manufacture and haptically explore a series of topographically patterned surfaces of controlled wavelength, but identical chemistry. Strain-induced surface wrinkling and subsequent templating produced 16 surfaces with wrinkle wavelengths ranging from 300a nm to 90a μm and amplitudes between 7a nm and 4.5a μm. Perceived similarities of these surfaces (and two blanks) were pairwise scaled by participants, and interdistances among all stimuli were determined by individual differences scaling (INDSCAL). The tactile space thus generated and its two perceptual dimensions were directly linked to surface physical properties - the finger friction coefficient and the wrinkle wavelength. Finally, the lowest amplitude of the wrinkles so distinguished was approximately 10a nm, demonstrating that human tactile discrimination extends to the nanoscale.

Background: The tactile perception is essential for all types of topical formulations (cosmetic, pharmaceutical, medical device) and the possibility to predict the sensorial response by using instrumental methods instead of sensory testing would save time and cost at an early stage product development. Here, we report on an instrumental evaluation method using tactile friction measurements to estimate perceptual attributes of topical formulations. Methods: Friction was measured between an index finger and an artificial skin substrate after application of formulations using a force sensor. Both model formulations of liquid crystalline phase structures with significantly different tactile properties, as well as commercial pharmaceutical moisturizing creams being more tactile-similar, were investigated. Friction coefficients were calculated as the ratio of the friction force to the applied load. The structures of the model formulations and phase transitions as a result of water evaporation were identified using optical microscopy. Results: The friction device could distinguish friction coefficients between the phase structures, as well as the commercial creams after spreading and absorption into the substrate. In addition, phase transitions resulting in alterations in the feel of the formulations could be detected. A correlation was established between skin hydration and friction coefficient, where hydrated skin gave rise to higher friction. Also a link between skin smoothening and finger friction was established for the commercial moisturizing creams, although further investigations are needed to analyse this and correlations with other sensorial attributes in more detail. Conclusion: The present investigation shows that tactile friction measurements have potential as an alternative or complement in the evaluation of perception of topical formulations.

Human tactile evaluations were combined with tactile friction measurements to quantify the perceptual experience of touching coated panels. Monosized beads of nine different polymer compositions were added to a soft-touch waterborne two-component PUR coating. Introducing beads of different composition affected tactile perception.

Finger friction measurements performed on a series of printing papers are evaluated to determine representativeness of a single individual. Results show occasionally large variations in friction coefficients. Noteworthy though is that the trends in friction coefficients are the same, where coated (smoother) papers display higher friction coefficients than uncoated (rougher) papers. The present study also examined the relationship between the measured friction coefficients and surface roughness to the perceived coarseness of the papers. It was found that both roughness and finger friction can be related to perceived coarseness, where group data show that perceived coarseness increases with increasing roughness.

A macroscopic finger friction device consisting of a piezoelectric force sensor was evaluated on 21 printing papers of different paper grades and grammage. Friction between a human finger and the 21 papers was measured and showed that measurements with the device can be used to discriminate a set of similar surfaces in terms of finger friction. When comparing the friction coefficients, the papers group according to paper grade and the emerging trend is that the rougher papers have a lower friction coefficient than smoother papers. This is interpreted in terms of a larger contact area in the latter case. Furthermore, a decrease in friction coefficient is noted for all papers on repeated stroking (15 cycles back and forth with the finger). Complementary experiments indicate that both mechanical and chemical modifications of the surface are responsible for this decrease: (1) X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy measurements show that lipid material is transferred from the finger to the paper surface, (2) repeated finger friction measurements on the same paper sample reveal that only partial recovery of the frictional behaviour occurs and (3) profilometry measurements before and after stroking indicate small topographical changes associated with repeated frictional contacts.

It is known that roughness-smoothness, hardness-softness, stickiness-slipperiness and warm-cold are predominant perceptual dimensions in macro-, micro- and nano- texture perception. However, it is not clear to what extent active tactile texture discrimination remains intact with age. The general decrease in tactile ability induces physical and emotional dysfunction in elderly, and has increasing significance for an aging population. We report a method to quantify tactile acuity based on blinded active exploration of systematically varying micro-textured surfaces and a same-different paradigm. It reveals that elderly participants show significantly reduced fine texture discrimination ability. The elderly group also displays statistically lower finger friction coefficient, moisture and elasticity, suggesting a link. However, a subpopulation of the elderly retains discrimination ability irrespective of cutaneous condition and this can be related to a higher density of somatosensory receptors on the finger pads. Skin tribology is thus not the primary reason for decline of tactile discrimination with age. The remediation of cutaneous properties through rehydration, however leads to a significantly improved tactile acuity. This indicates unambiguously that neurological tactile loss can be temporarily compensated by restoring the cutaneous contact mechanics. Such mechanical restoration of tactile ability has the potential to increase the quality of life in elderly. 

The aim of this study was to evaluate whether smooth surfaces varying in surface chemistry could be perceptually distinguished with the sense of touch. A set of ten glass surfaces was prepared which varied systematically in terms of the molecular composition of a thin coating of low topography. The contact angle, contact angle hysteresis, and surface energy were evaluated as objective physical parameters characterizing each coating. Additionally, the interaction forces between a human finger and the different coatings were quantified and compared in terms of tactile friction coefficients. The surfaces were evaluated psychophysically in terms of perceived similarities and were then ranked according to pleasantness. The participants could perceptually distinguish between surfaces varying in surface chemistry and a primary and secondary perceptual dimension were identified as sufficient to distinguish them. The primary dimension correlates with surface free energy, but both tactile friction and surface energy contribute to this dimension depending on whether the coatings are organic or inorganic. The secondary dimension could not be identified explicitly in terms of a physical quantity but is discussed in terms of recent developments in the literature. Coated glass is characterized by high friction coefficient upon interaction with a human finger as well as significant hysteresis in the stroking directions (lower applied load and higher friction in the backward stroke). Despite the complexity of the tribology, pleasantness can be clearly linked to it, where low friction (high contact angle) materials receive a higher ranking. © The Author(s) 2018.

Humans are extraordinarily skilled in the tactile evaluation of, and differentiation between, surfaces. The chemical and mechanical properties of these surfaces are translated into tactile signals during haptic exploration by mechanoreceptors in our skin, which are specialized to respond to different types of temporal and mechanical stimulation. Describing the effects of measurable physical characteristics on the human response to tactile exploration of surfaces is of great interest to manufacturers of household materials so that the haptic experience can be considered during design, product development and quality control. In this study, methods from psychophysics and materials science are combined to advance current understanding of which physical properties affect tactile perception of a range of furniture surfaces, i.e., foils and coatings, thus creating a tactile map of the furniture product landscape. Participants' responses in a similarity scaling task were analyzed using INDSCAL from which three haptic dimensions were identified. Results show that specific roughness parameters, tactile friction and vibrational information, as characterized by a stylus profilometer, a Forceboard, and a biomimetic synthetic finger, are important for tactile differentiation and preferences of these surface treatments. The obtained dimensions are described as distinct combinations of the surface properties characterized, rather than as 'roughness' or 'friction' independently. Preferences by touch were related to the roughness, friction and thermal properties of the surfaces. The results both complement and advance current understanding of how roughness and friction relate to tactile perception of surfaces.

The oft discussed and fretted over environmental influences on hair have led to a popular consensus which suggests that elevated temperature and humidity lead to frizzier, wilder hair. However, few attempts at actually quantifying these effects have been made. Although frizziness is usually perceived visually, here the influence of variations in temperature and humidity on the tactile perception and friction of curly and straight hair were investigated. It is shown that changes in humidity may disproportionately affect perceived frizziness of curly hair by touch due to concurrent changes in the tactile friction. © The Author(s) 2021.

Total fluorine was determined in 45 consumer product samples from the Swedish market which were either suspected or known to contain fluorinated polymers. Product categories included cookware (70–550 000 ppm F), textiles (10–1600 ppm F), electronics (20–2100 ppm F), and personal care products (10–630 000 ppm F). To confirm that the fluorine was organic in nature, and deduce structure, a qualitative pyrolysis-gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (pyr-GC/MS) method was validated using a suite of reference materials. When applied to samples with unknown PFAS content, the method was successful at identifying polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) in cookware, dental products, and electronics at concentrations as low as 0.1–0.2 wt%. It was also possible to distinguish between 3 different side-chain fluorinated polymers in textiles. Several products appeared to contain high levels of inorganic fluorine. This is one of the few studies to quantify fluorine in a wide range of consumer plastics and provides important data on the concentration of fluorine in materials which may be intended for recycling, along with insights into the application of pyr-GC/MS for structural elucidation of fluorinated polymers in consumer products.

This guide is a support for textile industry players, to improve commmunication about chemicals and raise the possibility for well-informed substitution work. It focuses on subsitution of highly fluorinated substances, also known as per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), offering textile buyers a deeper understanding about water repellence and the associated chemistry. The guide can be used as a starting point for your chemicals management and substitution work, with many links to other information sources. We recommend using the Table of Contents below as a navigational tool, to start filling any knowledge gaps and expand your reading from there.

The environmental impact is a strong incentive for the development of upcycling processes for textile waste. However, toxic chemicals may occur in both brand-new textiles and post-consumer garments, and the chemical transfer in such routes is important to investigate. The present study applied non-target screening and quantification with liquid chromatography/mass spectrometry to follow the fate of hazardous chemicals from post-consumer polycotton garments to a new material, cellulose nanocrystals, in a chemical upcycling utilizing strongly acidic conditions. The majority of hazardous chemicals detected within the process were found to be transferred to a residual of polyester material and not to the enriched cellulose. However, phthalates were found to be mainly attached to the cellulose nanocrystals. The detected total concentration, in this case, was below 5 μg/g, at least 200 times lower than the limit set by the European Union. This indicates the importance of monitoring and controlling the phthalate content in the starting material of the process, i.e., the post-consumer garments. The chemical release into the process waste effluent could be estimated based on water solubility data for chemicals under the applied conditions. Three compounds, the water-repellent substance perfluorooctanesulfonic acid and the dyes Crystal Violet and Victoria Pure Blue, were almost entirely transferred into the process waste effluent. Although the levels detected were very low in the present pilot process, their presence eventually indicates the need for wastewater purification at further upscaling, depending on the exposure and dose in relation to toxicological relevant thresholds.