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Spatial distribution of active compounds in stratum corneum—partitioning between corneocytes and lipid matrix
RISE Research Institutes of Sweden, Materials and Production, Methodology, Textiles and Medical Technology.ORCID iD: 0000-0002-2696-7215
L’Oréal Research and Innovation, France.
L’Oréal Research and Innovation, France.
RISE Research Institutes of Sweden, Bioeconomy and Health, Material and Surface Design.ORCID iD: 0000-0001-6657-1592
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2024 (English)In: Scientific Reports, E-ISSN 2045-2322, Vol. 14, no 1, article id 18681Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

The interaction of active substances with molecular structures in stratum corneum (SC) is crucial for the efficacy and safety of cosmetic formulations and topical drugs. However, the molecular architecture of SC is highly complex and methods to unambiguously localize exogenous molecules within SC are lacking. Consequently, little is known about the distribution of actives within SC, and proposed penetration mechanisms through SC are typically limited to simple diffusion via a tortuous (lipid only) or transverse (across corneocytes and lipid matrix) pathway. In this work, 3D mass spectrometry imaging is used to determine the spatial distributions of four active substances at subcellular resolution in SC, including partitioning between the corneocytes and the intercellular lipid matrix. The results indicate that caffeine, 2-methyl resorcinol and oxybenzone are homogeneously distributed in the corneocytes but largely absent in the lipid matrix, despite considerable differences in lipophilicity. In contrast, the distribution- of jasmonic acid derivative is more inhomogeneous and indicates considerable localization to both the lipid phase and the corneocytes.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Nature Research , 2024. Vol. 14, no 1, article id 18681
Keywords [en]
Animals; Benzophenones; Caffeine; Epidermis; Humans; Lipids; Mass Spectrometry; Resorcinols; benzophenone derivative; caffeine; lipid; resorcinol derivative; animal; chemistry; epidermis; human; mass spectrometry; metabolism
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Chemical Sciences
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URN: urn:nbn:se:ri:diva-74950DOI: 10.1038/s41598-024-66418-xScopus ID: 2-s2.0-85201250828OAI: oai:DiVA.org:ri-74950DiVA, id: diva2:1892940
Available from: 2024-08-28 Created: 2024-08-28 Last updated: 2024-08-28Bibliographically approved

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Sjövall, PeterSkedung, Lisa

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