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Relationship between sensorial and physical characteristics of topical creams: A comparative study on effects of excipients
Malmö University, Sweden; Speximo AB, Sweden.
RISE Research Institutes of Sweden, Bioeconomy and Health, Material and Surface Design.ORCID iD: 0000-0001-6657-1592
Lund University, SWeden.
Malmö University, Sweden.
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2022 (English)In: International Journal of Pharmaceutics, ISSN 0378-5173, E-ISSN 1873-3476, Vol. 613, article id 121370Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Rising consumer demands for safer, more natural, and sustainable topical products have led to increased interest in finding alternative excipients, while retaining functionality and cosmetic appeal. Particle-stabilized Pickering creams have emerged as possible alternatives to replace traditional surfactant-stabilized creams and are thus one of the focuses in this study. The aim of this paper was to study relationships between sensorial characteristics and physical properties to understand how different excipients affect these aspects, comparing one starch particle–stabilized and three surfactant-stabilized formulations. A human panel was used to evaluate sensorial perception, while physical properties were deduced by rheology and tactile friction, together with in vivo and ex vivo skin hydration measurements. The results show that sensorial attributes related to the application phase can be predicted with rheology, while afterfeel attributes can be predicted with tactile friction studies. Differences in rheological and sensory properties among surfactant-based creams could mainly be attributed to the type of emollients used, presence of thickeners and surfactant composition. Differences between surfactant-based creams and a Pickering cream were more evident in relation to the afterfeel perception. Presence of starch particles in the residual film on skin results in high tactile friction and low perception of residual coating, stickiness, greasiness, and slipperiness in sensorial afterfeel. © 2021 The Authors

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Elsevier B.V. , 2022. Vol. 613, article id 121370
Keywords [en]
Modified starch, Pickering emulsions, Rheology, Sensory study, Surfactant-free formulations, Tactile friction, Topical creams, cosmetic, emollient agent, excipient, friction, human, skin, Cosmetics, Emollients, Excipients, Humans
National Category
Food Engineering
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:ri:diva-59047DOI: 10.1016/j.ijpharm.2021.121370Scopus ID: 2-s2.0-85122426677OAI: oai:DiVA.org:ri-59047DiVA, id: diva2:1653239
Note

 Funding details: Stiftelsen för Kunskaps- och Kompetensutveckling, KKS; Funding details: Gustav Th. Ohlssons Fond; Funding text 1: We are grateful to the Knowledge foundation (Sweden) for funding the project, and Johan Engblom also thank the Gustaf Th Ohlsson foundation (Sweden) for financial support. Speximo AB is acknowledged for providing starch particles.

Available from: 2022-04-21 Created: 2022-04-21 Last updated: 2023-05-25Bibliographically approved

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